The textile industry is facing immense pressure to confront its substantial environmental impact. For decades, the industry has relied on petrochemical-based chemistry, which forms the backbone of synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon.
This dependency on fossil carbon, nitrogen and phosphorus has come at a considerable environmental cost, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions, toxic waste and resource depletion. As the world pushes for sustainability, the solution may lie in transitioning to bio-based, biodegradable alternatives and incorporating circularity into the textile production chain.
Reliance On Petro-chemical Based Products
"For nearly a century, petrochemical-based chemistry has dominated textile production," said Raj Tanna, Managing Director, SCHUTZEN Chemical Group at a textile summit held in New Delhi. Polyester, an important component in synthetic fibre manufacturing, now accounts for a significant portion of the industry, with textiles contributing between 2-7 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions, according to a recent report named ‘We Can Cut Petrochemicals Use Today: Textiles’ by RMI. The scale of the problem becomes clearer when polyester alone drives over half the demand for PET (polyethylene terephthalate), a type of plastic widely used in packaging and textiles.
"Petrochemical-based chemistry lies at the core of the textile industry’s unsustainability. To address this, we must shift from fossil carbon to bio-based and biodegradable chemistries for a scalable and sustainable future,” Raj Tanna added.
This reliance on synthetic fibres like polyester, produced through energy-intensive methods, has led to harmful environmental by-products. The production process releases microplastics, toxic chemicals from synthetic dyes and large quantities of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, contributing to ecological degradation.
Bio-based Alternatives
Bio-based materials such as bio-polyester which is derived from renewable sources like corn or sugarcane can offer a promising path forward. These alternatives have the potential to drastically reduce carbon emissions when integrated into textile production, as highlighted in the RMI report.
Along with being biodegradable, bio-based materials can break down naturally over time, reducing the long-lasting waste that accumulates in landfills and oceans. But still, coming up with bio-based solutions remains a challenge. The infrastructure needed to support the large-scale adoption of bio-based fibres is still built around fossil fuels.
Bio-based alternatives also often carry higher production costs, making them less accessible for manufacturers who rely on the affordability of petrochemical-based fibres. As Pankaj Kumar, National Project Coordinator from UNIDO points out, "While bio-based chemistry offers a multitude of benefits, including reduced environmental impact and new economic opportunities, the costs of implementing these technologies remain high."
The advantages of bio-based chemistry go beyond environmental impact, these alternatives open the door for a more circular approach to textiles, where materials can be reused, repaired or recycled, drastically reducing the need for virgin resources and minimising waste.
Circularity In Textile Industry
Circularity, or designing products with reuse, repair and recycling in mind, is a critical aspect of changing the textile industry into a sustainable one. As per Roopali Shukla, Director of the Apparel Training & Design Centre (ATDC), "Circularity must start at the design phase. Without embedding it there, it becomes too late by the time the product reaches its end of life. The entire value chain, from manufacturing to education, needs to integrate circularity as a core principle."
The RMI report also says that adopting circular models, such as second-hand clothing markets, repair services and textile recycling could reduce the industry’s waste footprint. By extending the life of garments and curbing the demand for new materials, circularity offers a way to combat the excessive waste generated by fast fashion.
One of the major hurdles to achieving true circularity lies in the complexity of modern garment production. Many clothes are made from blended materials, like polyester-cotton mixes, which are difficult to separate and recycle. The use of synthetic dyes and decorations further complicates the recycling process. Innovations such as mono-material garments, which are easier to recycle and company-led takeback initiatives are coming off as beneficial options to tackle these challenges.
Education And Awareness
The need for widespread education and awareness comes off as a challenge. Many industry stakeholders, including manufacturers and consumers, may not fully understand the benefits of bio-based chemistry and circularity.
Sameer Sood, Director, National Institute of Fashion Technology believes that educating future designers is crucial to driving the shift toward sustainability. "We need to embed the principles of sustainability into design education and ensure that the next generation of designers is equipped to create products that are both beautiful and environmentally responsible," he mentions.
Governments worldwide have a critical role to play in the textile industry's transformation. Financial incentives such as research grants, subsidies for green technologies and regulatory frameworks can encourage textile producers to adopt sustainable practices.
Consumer Responsibility
The success of the textile industry’s sustainability shift depends on consumer awareness and behaviour. As more consumers become aware of the environmental impacts of their clothing choices, there is a growing demand for products made sustainably and ethically. By supporting brands that prioritise eco-friendly practices, consumers can play a critical role in driving industry-wide change.
As Raj Tanna aptly puts it, "Fossil carbon cannot work. We need a scalable, sustainable solution and that solution lies in moving to bio-based, biodegradable chemistries."
