Textile Waste Is Third Largest Source Of Municipal Solid Waste: Aartee Roy, Fabindia
In an interaction with Urvi Shrivastav, Editorial Lead, BW ESG, BW Businessworld; Aartee Roy, Chief, Home and Lifestyle at Fabindia speaks about the issue of fabric waste, sustainability in this area and the initiatives taken by Fabindia in this direction
How big is the fabric waste issue in India?
Over one million tonnes of textiles are scrapped every year in India, according to industry estimates. Textile waste is third largest source of municipal solid waste in India. This issue is a major contributor to environmental distress, but there are untapped opportunities to bring about a change. At Fabindia, for example, we have been using the Gudri technique that patches fabric scraps from tailors and textile factories. Rejected, leftover, and unused pieces are stitched and embellished with a running stitch.
How is sustainability gaining traction in the apparel industry?
Consumer awareness is triggering responsible consumption, which is forcing its way through retail economics. Major brands are investing in ecologically sustainable sourcing practices and circular design. Mass consumer brands are proudly displaying recycled PET on their labels, along with the water consumed in production of their garments. Global players are targeting significant portions of their sourcing to be from recycled materials. Even niche fashion labels are showing off wicker accessories on ramps.
Can you tell us about ‘Shunya’?
Shunya is our attempt to play a role in plastic waste reduction in India. This collection of rugs, made from recycled PET, was launched in 2020. Approximately 200-300 PET bottles go into making each rug, which would have otherwise kept sitting in some landfill. They form the base of an industry which is scaling up exponentially. Currently, there are five designs of handwoven rugs, four on pit loom, and one in panja weave. We are working on new design options, which should be in stores early next year. Due to the easy-care nature of the yarn, these indoor/outdoor rugs are colour fast, weather-proof and stain resistant, making them ideal products in dining rooms and kids’ rooms. Shunya range starts from Rs. 1390 and goes up to Rs. 11900.
We also recognise the waste pickers whose role in this circular economy is undeniable. Most major mills today are producing the desired blends of recycled PET yarns and the demand across brands is also fairly high. We ensure that our vendors use authentic recycled PET when producing for our Shunya line. Single use recycled plastic is collected by mills who convert the plastic to pellets. These pellets are sourced by weaving mills who then convert it to the desired blend of yarn. Our suppliers source this yarn and have the same handwoven via local weavers.
Can you tell us about ‘Niyama’?
Niyama is a very original Indian concept. This range of incense sticks is made by repurposing floral waste from temples in Uttar Pradesh. With tons of floral waste being discarded daily, Fabindia has partnered with Phool India, a biomaterial start-up, to collect nearly 8.4 tons of flowers daily from the temples. The temple flowers are collected, cleaned, disinfected and then crushed into a composite material which is used for incense sticks and cones. This has a direct impact on aquatic ecosphere, which would have otherwise absorbed all the flower waste.
What is next on the cards?
Our intent is to build up the Shunya portfolio of rugs by adding many more options with newer design handwriting. Their coverage across stores and online will also be increased. We have recently also launched a line using recycled TAATs – the gunny bags used for cement. These are washed and then embroidered by a small cluster in Delhi and converted into utility products such as toiletry bags, runners and tablemats. Recycled PET as a yarn is being introduced into our upholstery fabrics to improve their durability and maintenance. Pine needle based composites, which lend themselves to tableware such as mugs are 100 per cent biodegradable, and yet another area being explored. All these initiatives are assessed for the environmental impact as well as employment creation within the local communities.
What kind of social impact do you have on Indian artisans?
Artisans are at the very heart of what we do at Fabindia. We work with close to 50,000 artisans across the country, and have created new markets for artisanal products, supporting them as they have learned the ropes of producing commercial volumes, without compromising on quality. We have focused on developing a complete value chain from artisan homes to urban markets. We are also building capacity to help artisans produce at volume with sustained quality. The Craft Cluster Development and Livelihood Impact (CDLI) program is an intensive form of capacity building and livelihood creation program for artisans, which was launched in 2016. Our business model is centered around the interests of India’s artisans, with an aim to bring purpose and profit together. As our business grows, so does our capacity for creating impact in the form of inclusive value for our artisans and other stakeholders.
What kind of conventional weaving techniques are used at Fabindia to promote sustainability?
We work with artisans and weavers to streamline their processes while promoting traditional techniques. We are probably the only brand still sourcing handloom products from regions like Amroha, Chanderi, West Bengal, Ikat from Andhra Pradesh, despite some production challenges that these sectors present. Over 90 per cent of our product portfolio has an element of handcraft whether its due to handloom, hand block printing, hand embroidery, hand etched, blown glass, hammering, hand painting, filigree. Huge efforts are committed to streamline production processes and design related investments. In Amroha, for eg, we are managing the local dyeing unit to ensure consistency in dye quality and minimize lot variations. Fabindia team is locally stationed in Amroha to provide day to day guidance and support to the weavers. Design interventions are constantly provided from the head office to keep the craft relevant to today’s lifestyles and consumer requirements.
