Integrate Handloom Techniques Into Production: Abraham & Thakore

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. How are you incorporating sustainability into your practice?
We’ve been committed to sustainable practices long before sustainability became an industry buzzword. For us, there is no industry if it is not sustainable. This pushes us to think of how we can be sustainable not just in terms of the fabrics and materials, but all forms of production and consumption. We think about who makes our clothing, and how their lives can be made sustainable. We think about who consumes our clothing, and how their shopping choices can be more mindful. This is a holistic approach to sustainability that we are working to refine every day. 

Please tell us about a recent collection that combines sustainability and traditional craft.

All our collections would fit this definition, no matter what time of year we are producing for. Our most recent collection, A Spike Of Life, is no exception. We used a lot of fabrics that are gentle on the earth (Tencel, for example) and enlivened them with artisanal techniques such as embroidery and hand block printing. 

We also continued to think a lot about the consumer, and what it would mean for these purchases to be sustainable for them. This collection, like our others, defy the categories of seasonal and occasion wear that limits the ideas of what can be worn, and when. Our garments are crossovers, designed to take you not only from desk to dusk, but from one season to the other, and hopefully – one generation to the next! 

What are the three aspects the fashion industry should focus on to reduce waste?

1. Use fabrics other than cotton, which is the most polluting material because of the water it uses to produce. 

2. Integrate traditional methods into production. There is enough evidence that hand weaving is much gentler on the earth, because it reduces carbon emissions (some sources say 1 ton of CO2 emissions per year, per handloom). Thus, a sustainable industry must look to integrate handloom techniques into production. 

3. Work around their own cultural and climate conditions: the fashion calendar is adherent to a homogenous, western fashion system that is premised on four distinct seasons. However, this is not the way many of us experience the climate –  in India especially. If production and sales corresponded more to our needs and realities, consumption would be a lot less wasteful. 

What are some of the challenges that the Indian fashion industry faces today?
There is a growing interest and dependence on the Indian craft sector, but until it is seen as an industry that produces luxury goods – and is compensated as such – our relationship to the sector is both exploitative and unsustainable. We must see our artisans and craftsmen as what they are – the most wonderful resources we have.

Embracing technology helped drive growth for the Indian fashion industry. Do you see any drawbacks to brands going digital?
Technology can be very helpful to drive growth for the Indian fashion industry in all sectors. However, the digital must work with the craft sector, and not in opposition to it. If there is a healthy relationship between the two, we can expect to see a lot of positive growth.

Which segment of the fashion Industry will see maximum growth in the next five years?
Athleisure has emerged as a big market, and is likely to keep growing. Sustainable fashion is becoming more important to all consumers, and I think we will see a lot more sustainable brands in the next five years, or existing brands trying to become more sustainable. 

Athleisure has increased in popularity over the years. What are some of the factors that have contributed to its popularity?
I think COVID and the rise of work from home culture transformed how people thought about their clothes. Comfort became a priority. There is also a simultaneous concern about health, and healthy living and working has become a lifestyle. Being in gym-ready clothes makes people more likely to go to the gym, and they also get to show people that they are part of this active culture.

What can buyers expect from your brand in the next year?
We will continue to explore more forms of sustainable production, and keep looking towards indigenous examples as we do so.  We are also going to look at creative ways to expand our audience through digital and offline methods so that we connect with all the culturally curious people out there. Abraham & Thakore Home  will also see some exciting new developments.