Avantika Malhotra, a rising star in the New York fashion scene, is making waves with her unique approach to surface design and print work. Known for her innovative use of batik paintings and her deep connection to the natural world, Avantika's designs reflect her artistic journey and personal experiences. In this exclusive Q&A, Avantika delves into the creative processes behind her prints, the inspiration drawn from her surroundings, and her vision for the future of sustainable fashion.
Q. Could you explain the journey from inspiration to creating a surface design in your print work?
I start many of my prints with batik paintings, a type of wax-resist dye technique. My process for creating these is intuitive and involves referencing visual personal research and collages. The batik medium brings unique dimension and texture to it. I then scan these and further manipulate the prints digitally, refining them through multiple iterations, often going back and forth from digital to physical. There is a lot of experimentation at this stage. For example, one of the fabrics used for the pants in Look 2 of Whispers in the Current features an original print inspired by the sand markings I saw at Juhu Beach.
Q. How do the intangible qualities of water reflections influence your choice of prints in your work?
The fluidity and movement of reflections bring a dynamic quality to my prints, while the play of light and shadow inspires layered, three-dimensional designs. While designing, I drew inspiration from underwater caves and light permeation, questioning the significance of the loss of light and colour. I experimented with negative space, blocking out areas of light and dark, to explore the notion of visibility and how what we don’t see still exists. This particular print started as a silk painting:
Q. What challenges did you face while integrating such complex themes into ready-to-wear print designs, and how did you overcome them?
I simplified the motifs and tested the prints on various fabrics and styles. For example, the pants from Look 2 of Whispers in the Current were translated into a ready-to-wear version featured in Look 1 of my SS24 capsule collection. I adjusted the colour and contrast settings, making the green brighter and using a softer material base to enhance wearability.
Q. Your SS24 collection features a dynamic colour palette of blues, purples, and bright yellows. How did you decide on these colours, and what effect do you hope they have on the viewer?
These colours evoke vitality and optimism. The bright yellow, in particular, is reminiscent of the dive boats I frequented, which were surrounded by the deep blue ocean, light blue skies, and lush green islands. This vibrant colour choice reflects that sense of adventure and scenery.
Q. You mentioned blurring the lines between reality and reflection. How do the print designs embody this concept, and what reaction do you hope to elicit from those who view the collection?
My prints incorporate layered patterns and mirrored effects to embody the concept of blending reality with reflection. If you were to look at the backend of the artwork files, you would find countless layers contributing to the depth and complexity of the final design. I aim to evoke curiosity and wonder, encouraging viewers to examine the designs closely.
I like to treat the prints as standalone works of art. At my exhibitions, I provide keepsake cards that showcase the full print panel, emphasising that while the final composition of the print placement on the garment is important, the overall composition of the print itself holds equal significance.
Q. How do you see your prints influencing or setting trends in the fashion industry for the upcoming seasons?
While I can’t predict how my work will influence future seasons, I enjoy mixing and matching different prints and hope to see this embraced in upcoming trends.
Q. Given the success of this collection, how do you plan to evolve your print designs in future collections?
I plan to continue experimenting with colour and form, creating prints that reflect genuine personal connections. I appreciate how prints can embed deep meanings—understood by those with the 'code' while allowing open-ended interpretations for others. I’m also excited about the possibility of expanding my print collection into a scarf collection.
Q. How do you see the future of sustainable fashion evolving, and what role do you hope to play in that future?
I see the future of sustainable fashion evolving towards implementing low-waste practices and exploring methods with a lower carbon footprint. In my design process, I use 3D software like CLO3D for digital patternmaking and garment simulation, which helps me determine print placement and experiment with various possibilities without wasting fabric. Leveraging such digital tools is important in the future of sustainable fashion practices.
Awards:
Print Design Scarf Project https://nydesignawards.com/winner-info.php?id=1610
SS24: https://www.idesignawards.com/winners/zoom.php?eid=9-50355-23
Whispers in the Current: https://design.museaward.com/winner-info.php?id=18711
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