Christmas is Here! Happy Feasting!
Christmas time is synonymous with eating, drinking and making merry. Much of it is about the feasting. While Santa brings the surprise element, kitchens are fired up in preparation for a meal that amplifies the spirit the festival calls for. The warmth and bonhomie are palpable as families and friends gather over a hearty meal.
While Christian homes cook up their local highlights, others try and book themselves for a special Christmas brunch to partake of that spirit. According to Chef Philip Gomez from the esteemed Delhi Golf Course, “Every region of India has its own local specialties but in 5-stars and clubs you will see a lot of English standard fare like bread pudding with cranberry sauce, chipolata roll, turkey or capon”. Capon for the uninitiated is a rooster that is castrated to improve the quality of its flesh.
Apart from the ubiquitous plum cake, there are many traditional sweet offerings for the occasion. On the west coast there is Neureos or coconut stuffed flour dumplings, in the north something similar in the form of Gujjias. Bengalis enjoy Patishapta or coconut pancakes and in the north east they make sesame ladoos or sweet sticky rice. Rosette or rose cookies is not just a feature of Kerala but can be found in other parts too.
Throwing light on the evolution of Christmas fare Chef Prem K Pogakula from The Imperial, says, “Christmas dinner has always been less about tradition and more about having a little of what you fancy. Alternatives are fine. People are becoming less homogenised, many will have a feast with different influences.” In medieval times Christmas included a 12-day period of feasting. From 18th Century, a British national cuisine developed. Mince pies, leg of pork, game and plum pudding- all made up the Christmas fare. From modern period, at the start of the 20th Century, the wealthy served roast beef, mince pies, plum pudding, and turkey. But the poor ate goose. Even today, Christmas meals are constantly evolving, particularly as we adopt foods from around the world. Smoked salmon, a common starter, is a Nordic speciality. Chefs also embrace international influences in their cooking.
Interestingly Chef Pogakula tells us, that turkey was originally for Thanksgiving that has recently been forwarded to Christmas. “Turkey is actually the 'new kid on the block' and cranberry sauce definitely came over from America,” he says.
The exotic fare put together by the chef includes apart from other things, apple roasted pork leg, clove and cinnamon pork belly, Irish farm rabbit stew, roasted turkey, five spice confit duck and a live nitrogen freeze cream.
Talking about borrowing inspiration internationally, chefs also feel the need to keep familiarity at the heart of it all. According to Chef Pankaj Jha from The Suryaa, “this is one time we make vast preparations to celebrate an occasion that symbolizes good cheer and bonding. It is one of our biggest spread where we try and offer our guests everything they would expect and more. So ours is a multi cultural experience.” Apart from the usual roast turkey, cold cuts and liver pate, they also have a live section offering a range of kebabs and a teppanyaki icecream counter. The interactive island kitchen is only another addition to help the guests feel more welcome.
After all it is all about fostering a happy, yuletide spirit!
