<div><em>India’s evolving consumer mindset is adapting traditional ideas of luxury to a modern outlook, writes <strong>Ritu Kumar</strong></em></div><div> </div><div>The better part of my working career has been in the beautiful and artistically inclined city of Kolkata. Our generation grew up with the fact that India has a rich cultural heritage, with traditions of maharajas and kingdoms. We were blessed that we had the taste and understood the importance of investing in luxury. India is home to the most beautiful jewels, palaces and fabrics in the world. </div><div> </div><div>In my experience of close to 40 years, I would say only the elite probably knew the names and distinguishing features of luxury brands, be it hotels, automobiles, or clothing. But the Indian mindset has undergone a drastic change in the past decade. The market is starting to accept luxury. We are getting there, albeit slowly. The scale, opportunities and potential that India has to offer in the luxury fashion segment are substantial. I always wanted to find a universal definition of luxury. But I realised it would not be simple, as luxury evokes different things for different people. According to the Indian mindset, luxury is affordable, and opulence is still a distant thought. As long as something gives customers the special satisfaction of owning something prestigious that enhances their status, it can be termed a luxury item.</div><div> </div><div>Having been one of India’s foremost designers with an understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts, I started out in Kolkata under the brand name ‘Ritu’, and was the first woman to introduce the boutique culture in India. I have seen the luxury industry being completely focused on quality, which is the primary requirement.</div><div> </div><div>The evolving consumer mindset is adapting the traditional outlook on luxury brands to a more modern stance. The average customer is far more conscious of labels and brands than he or she was 10 years ago. India is a growing market for superior brand-based designer garments. The increase in disposable incomes, a more globalised lifestyle, and even changes in the spending patterns of the young urban chic set have truly captured the essence of style and sophistication. Consumers today want to be seen in a light that is more luxurious than opulent. The older generation may like flashiness and lavishness, but independent men and women prefer understated luxury.</div><div> </div><div>I have focused my career on redefining the term “fashion” in the Indian context. I predominantly experiment with premium quality fabrics, such as cotton, silk and leather, influenced by India’s rich textile and embroidery heritage. After all, luxury is not all about the display of elitism through labels, but about the intricate details of artisanal work. It is truly impressive to see how the global market is embracing Indian designs and craftsmanship.</div><div> </div><div>Indian ethnic wear has been synonymous with detailing, a process driven by tailoring and detailed supervision at every step, to produce a wellcrafted garment. With the weddings becoming more extravagant and curated, consumers are becoming more detail-oriented, and demand quality and craft. They want their clothes to combine heritage craftsmanship with contemporary class. For example, actress Kareena Kapoor wore an heirloom gharara passed down to her from her husband Saif Ali Khan’s paternal grandmother, and we recreated it to give the heritage garment a modern look.</div><div> </div><div>In our business, creativity and technique meets with the exclusivity of couture heirlooms, which believes in reviving heritage craftsmanship. While bringing Indian silks to the forefront in the global market, we have concentrated in the past year on improving the livelihood of skilled workers, increasing the popularity of Banarasi weaves through our shows, and increasing the global fame of the fabric as a ‘Make in India’ product.</div><div> </div><div>Indian weddings are a huge market for designers to showcase and sell luxury ethnic wear, and to cater to the demands of the customers. At an occasion like this, not only do people make luxurious purchases for their own satisfaction, but entire families go out of their way to make the wedding a magnificent affair. This is a huge market for designers. Half of India’s population is under 30 years old, so the wedding market is set to boom like never before in the next five to ten years.</div><div> </div><div>Influenced heavily by their friends circle, women and men splurge to get the perfect wedding piece for their special day. People are quite willing to spend lavishly to ensure the perfect look, and for the expertise that goes into making individual designer silhouettes. </div><div> </div><div>Consumers invest quality time in deciding on the purchase of a high-value luxury outfit. Luxury is the affordable elegance used to pamper brides and grooms at a time that is one of the biggest highlights in their lives.</div><div> </div><div>I have seen a sea change in the mindset of the Indian consumer. With so many young designers trying to experiment with different styles, it is an interesting phase in Indian fashion industry. Honestly, I feel that young designers should only be encouraged. This is a crucial time when they are trying to maintain their identity amongst the various international brands.</div><div> </div><div>I am fortunate to be a part of this vibrant space over the past four decades, and wish to see Indian fashion grow globally and locally.</div><div> </div><div>I hope that today’s buyers understand the value of Indian brands just as much as they do of international brands. This would help place us higher globally.</div><div> </div><div><em>The author is a well-known fashion designer</em></div><div> </div><div>(This story was published in BW | Businessworld Issue Dated 16-11-2015)</div>
