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New-Age Atlantis

So, you have your list of ‘100 places to visit before you die' in place, you have planned your vacation for this year, and perhaps even for the next. From the sun-soaked natural attractions of Cape Town to the moonlit canals of Venice, from the sky diving delights of Taupo, New Zealand, to the cloud-capped kingdom in the Andes of Peru, you want to visit them all before you kick the bucket. But ever wondered what if some of your dream destinations were to disappear— or deteriorate — even before you plan an excursion? Well, global warming is affecting many places worldwide. Several glaciers and islands, along with their entire ecosystem, now face extinction. So, some popular tourist spots could soon either disappear or not be worth going to. Here are some destinations that you can hotfoot to before they turn not-so-dreamy. HAIL KILIMANJARO: A fresh dusting of snow atop the dormant volcano of Mount Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania. The snow might melt by 2020 (Reuters) Mount Kilimanjaro: Climbing the highest peak in Africa does not presuppose high mountaineering skills, ice axes, ropes or crampons. All you need is strong legs and a strong will to forfend altitude sickness, though it is mandatory to climb with a licensed guide. According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), the natural ecosystems on Mount Kilimanjaro are getting modified. In the past century alone, the expanse of the mountain's ice fields decreased by about 80 per cent and if current climatic conditions persist, the remaining ice fields are likely to disappear by 2020. So, if mountaineering amid a thick layer of snow has been on your mind, this trip should necessarily be on the cards. Though Kilimanjaro can be climbed all year round, the non-rainy periods from January to mid March and from July to September are the ideal times to visit. break-page-breakCaribbean coral reef: If you are a scuba diving enthusiast, make sure you dive in here. The Cayman Islands, Bonaire (the Dutch Caribbean) or Cozumel, the Mexican Caribbean's largest island, are all famous either for currents, fish and turtles or simply because of great visibility. The only concern is the fast disappearing corals and the species that inhabit them. Global warming is playing havoc here and barring a solution, marine life in the reef could be extinct by 2050. Besides, the reef is threatened by increasing sedimentation and land use-related pollution. CORAL BEAUTY: A scuba diver explores a motley colour coral reef in the Grand Cayman Islands. These might become lifeless in 40 years (CORBI break-page-breakTuvalu islands: Halfway between Hawaii and Australia is a small, uncharted Polynesian island nation called Tuvalu. The fourth smallest country in the world with a population of 9,000 has managed to preserve the beauty of its exotic islands and is perfect for seeking harmony with nature. However, Tuvalu is among the first nations to be affected by sea level rise, and its islands are slowly disappearing into the Pacific Ocean. The island has already launched an international complaint about getting submerged, says The Energy and Resources Institute (Teri). The best time to visit Tuvalu is during its dry seasons — from December to mid-January and from June to mid-September. LOST IN BLUE: The Fongafale Island, part of Funafuti Atoll and the capital island of Tuvalu, a country that is under threat from the rising seas (CORBIS break-page-breakThe Maldives: With its swaying palm trees and azure lagoons, this honeymoon getaway  is another island on IPCC's list of vulnerable places. A number of islands here may disappear under the sea in the next 50 years if the sea level continues to rise as a result of global warming. So, if you haven't been to this beautiful Asian country yet, waste no time — slap on your sunscreens and pack your beach wear. Plan your trip sometime between December and April, because that is when you can fully relish the charm of the Maldives and get a few extra hours of sunshine. ENDANGERED BEAUTY: An aerial view of Maldives' Funadhoo (CORBI break-page-breakThe Sunderbans: This vast stretch of impenetrable mangrove forests with lush green trees has the country's largest tiger reserve and national park. The only natural habitat of the Royal Bengal Tiger, this southern end of West Bengal is gradually getting wiped out because of rise in the sea level. A good way to tour the Sunderbans is to go on a cruise that covers the entire forests in four days and three nights. The best time to visit is between September and May as there are better chances of sighting a tiger. ENDANGERED BEAUTY: Fishing boats in the Sunderbans (CORBIS break-page-breakAmazon rainforests: Ignore the debate on whether or not the Amazon rainforests are under threat from climate change, and plan a trip to this South American jungle anyway. Also known as ‘Amazonia', it is the largest and most species-rich ecosystem on earth. A good starting point would be the Brazilian national parks, which encompass a vast portion of the 5.5 million sq. km rainforest. Visits to ecological parks, fishing, a dive into fresh water springs, forest treks and canoeing could be included in your trip.Himalayan glaciers: IPCC's reports about the melting glaciers created an icy storm worldwide, but there is still a raging debate in the scientist community as to whether the glaciers are disappearing due to global warming or are actually bulging. Whichever holds true, we suggest you pack your gear and get moving as the Himalayan glaciers boast some of the the world's most spectacular mountain treks such as the Langtang Circuit and Helambu Trek in Nepal, and Nanda Devi and Roop Kund Trek in the Kumaon and Garhwal regions. ENDANGERED BEAUTY: A burnt Amazonian forest (Reuters (This story was published in Businessworld Issue Dated 18-04-2011)

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Google Tablets Seen Overtaking iPad In 5 Yrs

Tablet computers running Google's Android software will catch up with Apple's iPad and surpass it in 2016, research firm Informa said on Wednesday.Informa said it expects Apple's current 75 per cent market share to fall to 39 per cent in 2015, when Android market share will grow to 38 per cent."From 2013, as cheaper and more advanced Android tablets enter the market, we forecast that sales will pick up considerably, eventually surpassing iPad sales in 2016," analyst David McQueen said in a statement.Samsung Electronics Galaxy Tab has been the best-selling Android tablet so far, but also other vendors including Motorola Mobility use it on their devices."We have seen a huge explosion in the tablet market in recent years, driven primarily by the iPad, and we estimate that the market will go from strength to strength, growing from under 20 million tablets sold in 2010, to over 230 million in 2015," McQueen said.   (Reuters)

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Holidaybreak Confirms Possible Offer

The British specialist travel company's shares were up 12 per cent at 412 pence, making it the second biggest gainer on the London Stock Exchange on Tuesday, after Holidaybreak confirmed it was in discussions with tour operator Cox & Kings Ltd regarding a possible offer.The company said the discussions may or may not lead to a cash offer of 432.1 pence per ordinary share, which is at a premium of 18 per cent to the stock's Monday close."We view the offer price of 432.1p as broadly adequate...the main prize for any bidder is the education division," analyst Sahill Shan at Brewin Dolphin said.The company, which provides residential outdoor education and adventure trips for school children, is valued at 225.24 million pounds based on its Monday's close.Holidaybreak had on Monday revealed it was in takeover talks with third parties.Cox & Kings Ltd, the parent of UK-based unlisted Cox and Kings, had allocated liquid funds of over 10 billion rupees in January for acquisitions in the U.S. and Europe.The tour operator gets over half its overall revenues from its international operations and is looking at more overseas buys to drive future earnings and growth.   (Reuters)

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Classic Makeovers

Think Jodhpur. Think Gwalior. Think of any princely state. In the medley of images that comes to mind will surely be one of a royal moving around in a beautifully maintained 1930s or 1940s Rolls-Royce or BMW. Apart from the blue-blooded types, there used to be some elusive Bombay-based collectors who owned such cars. Till the 1990s or even the early 2000s, collecting vintage and classic cars and restoring them was a nascent business, sorry, hobby. And it was a hobby meant for those who had money by the bagfuls, and also a very good understanding of a car's mechanics, a difficult-to-find combination. Towards the beginning of this decade, clubs such as Vintage and Classic Car Club of India and Heritage Motoring Club of India began spreading awareness among new antique car enthusiasts by conducting workshops and giving lessons on car restoration, besides serving as a platform to buy and sell old cars. These are somewhat similar to the ‘autojumbles' held in countries such as the UK, Australia and the US to trade in vintage and classic cars.Today, a lot more people are interested in restoring old cars, for various reasons — the most common being plain old sentiment. And the process has become easier, too. You can dump your rusty, unrecognisable beauty on a professional car restoration expert, pay a fee (whether considerable or not depends on who your expert is), and get a bright, good-as-new version at the end of it. Interested? Well, here are some pointers, from some passionates trying to get some grand beauties into shape, and from some who know a thing or two about restoring cars. EXPERT EDGE London-based Will Fiennes has been restoring Rolls-Royce and Bentley cars since 1975 You have two choices when you want to restore a car. One, restore it to its original (factory) condition; and two, modify it to introduce modern technology. For Ravi Avalur, the choice was clear: "If you want a car with modern technology, you can always buy a brand new car, but it will lack soul." Avalur, partner and vice-president of Tecnova India, a Gurgaon-based consultancy and boutique M&A firm, is restoring a 1937 Ford V8 Phaeton that was purchased by his great-great grandmother, Gulbai Manchersha Disana, in 1937 for Rs 3,444 and 14 annas. It has been passed down through four generations along with its original purchase receipt, registration book and BMW licence plate (not the car maker! all car licence plates in the erstwhile Bombay state began with B, and Bombay city had BMW) issued before World War II. Only 3,723 of these cars were ever made and this right-hand drive version, made by Ford of Canada, is an even rarer variant.Apart from the family ownership, there is a bit of quaint history behind what really made Avalur passionate about restoring this particular car. His grandparents, Zarine and Purviz Damry, would bring him Tintin comic books to read as a child. At the age of seven, while reading King Ottokar's Sceptre, Avalur recognised the car that Tintin uses to escape as being nearly identical to the 1937 Ford V8 Phaeton lying at the far end of his grandparent's compound in Pune. "I wanted the car to survive and decided that I would restore it one day to its pristine condition," says Avalur. Today, 30 years later, he has brought the car all the way from Pune to Delhi, and handed it over to automotive restoration expert Tutu Dhawan to do the honours.Restoring a car to its original condition can take anywhere between six months and three years, and requires much painstaking research pertaining not only to mechanical detail but also colour, interiors, accessories and trim. "Sometimes it's just a mixture of a dead engine, flat tyres, rusty chassis and moth-eaten interiors, and we have to change it into a ‘car', a luxury car to be precise," says Dhawan. "It's a huge challenge."Avalur is using The V8 Times and The 1937 Ford Book, both published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America, for detailed information on the car. He also hopes that the archives of The Benson Ford Research Center will yield additional information. "We are trying to salvage and repair as much of the original vehicle as possible, but where parts need to be replaced, we are using genuine Ford V8 parts," says Avalur. Some parts for the car can still be found locally and in their original packing. Other parts made from original Ford tooling can be ordered online from suppliers in the US such as Baxter's, Dennis Carpenter, and Mac and Bob Drake.break-page-breakAnother member of Avalur's tribe is Rohan Vaziralli, country manager for India at Estée Lauder, who is restoring an MGB 1971 — a sports car made by UK-based MG (Morris Garages). He inherited the car from his grandfather who bought it at a price of Rs 40,000. "My reason for originality is the passion and the joy of driving a fully restored car," says Vaziralli. "Till now I have spent Rs 5 lakh in restoration, and I expect the restoration cost to go up to Rs 8 lakh at the time of completion." He has so far brought back the hood, seats, steering wheel, gear shift and fuel tank.The cost of restoration varies depending on the car. Unlike a Ford 1932 model, which one can pick up for Rs 2 lakh, spend about Rs 4-5 lakh and later sell at Rs 10-15 lakh, a Bentley or a Rolls-Royce can make you lighter by crores. "If a total restoration is contemplated of pre-War Rolls-Royces and Bentleys, the cost is likely to be between £150,000 (Rs 1.05 crore) and £200,000 (Rs 1.4 crore)," says Will Fiennes, managing director of UK-based Fiennes Restoration, a specialist in Rolls-Royce and Bentley restoration.For Fiennes, restoring cars began as a hobby in 1966 when he bought his first car, a 1936 Riley. "I began to restore cars professionally in about 1975, when my involvement with Rolls-Royce and Bentley began," says Fiennes. "But the actual specialisation in restoring Rolls-Royce and Bentley started in 1978." Incidentally, the first car that his company restored professionally was a 1938 Daimler. This took about 18 months, but it was not a total restoration. His company has since restored, apart from Rolls-Royce and Bentley, several other cars, including Jaguar, Riley, Skoda, Hudson, Star, Cadillac and Sunbeam. "Forty years ago when I was doing that work, availability of spare parts and access to technical literature was much less," says Fiennes.In India, though, the opposite holds true. "Availability of antique car parts is getting extremely difficult these days," says Dhawan. "Earlier, a lot of parts were available easily and without much hassle. Now, either we have to create the parts in our own workshop or purchase them from various online shopping sites such as Amazon.com and eBay.com." Some of the oldest car models that Dhawan has restored are the 1909 model of the Willys-Overland, 1907 model of a three-wheeler Morgan and a 1925 Rolls-Royce Phantom. The first car that he restored was a 1947 Volkswagen Beetle in the 1970s.Here's some sweet music for those who would love to restore classic beauties but hesitate for not having a technical background. "I have not studied engineering, still I build cars," says Dhawan. "I teach youngsters to restore these marques." At present, 70-75 cars are under restoration in his workshop and he has sold more than 350 cars in the past 30 years.However, unlike Dhawan who emphasises in having just original spare parts, another restoration expert from Delhi focuses on ‘budget antiques' (yippee!) and says that one need not have big pockets these days to restore a car. "It is a myth that only the rich can buy and restore a car," says Navinder Singh, founder of Delhi-based Ageless Classics, and a founder-member of the Heritage Motoring Club of India. "Today, you can buy an old car in, say, Rs 50,000 and restore it. One need not have the best paints in the world. There are some decent quality and low-priced automobile parts and paints available in the market, which can be effectively used in restoring a car. The aim should be to enjoy one's passion." DRIVEN BY PASSION (left) Ravi Avalur focuses on rebuilding his 1937 Ford V8 Phaeton to its full originality; and Navinder Singh with his 1956 Fiat Millicento (BW Pics By Bivash Banerjee) At times, costs can go completely out of whack. Here's why. "When a client gives us the initial brief, he sets limits or constraints," says Fiennes. "But as the work progresses, he becomes more ambitious, and it is quite common that by the end the job has expanded vastly in scope." That would, naturally, take the costs up exponentially, leading some clients to even desert their cars and making themselves scarce. Restorers have learnt to expect such situations and handle them. "We send pictures to our customers at every stage," says Dhawan. "Everything is on record and constantly monitored and photographed. This is for the benefit of both the parties involved, so that no one can back out at the last moment. Once the car is ready, we give him a CD that contains pictures right from the beginning of the restoration till the final stage."Now, that's what we call a photo finish!(This story was published in Businessworld Issue Dated 03-01-2011)

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On A High

Who said living a life of luxury is easy? According to a Lifestyle Index, launched by Swiss investment bank Julius Baer (along with its new Wealth Report), the cost of luxurious living — the luxury inflation rate, if you will — is up 11.7 per cent in dollar terms over the past 12 months.The index is based on a survey among consumers of a basket of 20 luxury goods and services conducted in four cities: Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore and Mumbai.The basket includes, among other things, Lafite Rothschild 2000 wine ($3,336 a bottle, up nearly 22 per cent) Oyster Rolex watches ($32,200, up 9 per cent), Chanel bags ($4,175, 17.5 per cent), and Cohibo siglo VI cigars ($760 a pop, 5 per cent). Then, there's your Armani suits, and oh yes, boarding schools.Julius Baer estimates there are 1.1 million rich people in Asia, worth well over $3 trillion. The reason for the high inflation on high living? More demand from rich people. Guess tight monetary policy isn't going to be able to fix that.STRICTLY BUSINESSAt $6 billion, online sales account for only 2.6 per cent of the $237-billion luxury goods market now, but it is expected to touch $15 billion by 2015. The gamechanger? Fashion blogs that are trend setters in emerging countries, says a report by luxury foundation Altagamma.(This story was published in Businessworld Issue Dated 26-09-2011)

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Supporting A New Tablet

Android tablets were by and large big screen devices running small-screen phone software, so the overall experience was rather mediocre, even more so if you compared it to the made-for-iPad platform and apps. That is until Google announced the Honeycomb variant of the Android platform that was designed with tablets in mind. Does the Acer Iconia Tab A500, the first Honeycomb tablet to hit Indian shores, do enough? One glance at the pricing, and I'm mighty interested in find out more. Shall we? Straight out of the box, there is a noticeable bulk about this device. It tips the scales at well over 700 grams and feels it too. You could try single-handed reading on this device, but the weight does kick in after a while. In terms of build quality, I liked the chic brushed aluminum case, but the seams are very visible. Another visible difference you will certainly notice is the lack of buttons on its front face – it is all bezel and 10.1-inch 1280x800 pixel screen (save for the 2-megapixel front-facing camera). This is an intentional design decision that's common to all Honeycomb tablets so that you can hold and use the slate in any orientation. There is a screen-orientation lock if you find all of this confusing, though. Under the hood, the A500 houses a capable NVIDIA 1GHz dual-core Tegra 2 processor with 1GB RAM, and on the storage front features 16GB onboard with the ability to add another 32GB via microSD card. A neat addition is a full-size USB port – great for on-the-go use with thumb drives, and USB keyboards and mice. There's news that a future software update may also allow you to connect your USB internet dongles directly to the A500 for on-the-go connectivity (the current unit was Wi-Fi only). Also, with the A500, you get a mini-HDMI port, but there's no cable in the box, you'll have to hunt a bit to get the correct adapter cable.Stacked as it is in the specs department, it came as no surprise that games ran smoothly and HD videos played with consummate ease on the device. Even the new Android 3.0 interface with all its animation effects ran without any fuss (more on that in the box). The rest of the experience was middling, with an average 5MP rear camera and battery performance that's pretty bog-standard.Verdict? The pricing is right, so are the specs. It's laudable that Acer pipped Motorola and Samsung in launching early. But the build and the Honeycomb platform leaves a lot to be desired, and I'd suggest you wait and watch for other entrants to launch their Honeycomb tablets so you have some options to choose from. Honeycomb It may have evolved from the smartphone Android you've seen many times on these pages, but Honeycomb brings a number of new tablet features to the table. With the buttons gone, you have the back, home and menu buttons displayed all the time in the bottom left corner of the screen on the notification bar, irrespective of what app you have open. Notifications have shifted to the bottom as well. Unlike the smartphone space where pretty much every manufacturer customises the Android experience, the A500 doesn't significantly touch the base Honeycomb experience, and that has a lot to do with Google's diktat to tablet makers. That said, the base Honeycomb apps are really quite good, and I quite liked the Gmail app which has been optimised for the tablet display. There are a number of games that Acer has thrown in as well like NFS Shift and Let's Golf. But the truth cannot be denied – there are just not too many Honeycomb specific apps available in the Android app store, somewhere in the low hundreds as compared to over 100,000 apps optimised for the iPad. Some Android smartphone apps scale well to fit the bigger display, but many look stretched and out of proportion. Rating: 7/10Price: Rs. 27,990/URL: http://bit.ly/q3ATkT Optimal Style The HTC Sensation and the Galaxy SII may well be the Android phones to lust after but they certainly aren't wallet friendly. It's really the phones that cost thereabouts of Rs 20,000 that deliver a better bang for the consumer's buck. One such device is the LG Optimus Black, which packs in a number of sensible features for a phone of its segment. For example, there's the headliner 4-inch Nova display, which is essentially a display with the resolution and brightness that far exceeds traditional LCD displays today. Plus it works really well in direct sunlight, a pretty mean feat. Where it lacks in raw processing power – it packs in a 1GHz (single-core) CPU and 512MB RAM – it makes up on the feature front, and I quite like the Wi-Fi Direct technology, which allows you to transfer files locally to and from compatible phones, laptops and media players faster than Bluetooth, and is as easy to set up as Bluetooth. All in all, it heads off quite nicely against the single core Androids out there, but LG really needs upgrade this to the latest 2.3 version of Android pronto! Rating: 7/10Price: Rs 20,990URL: http://bit.ly/nhcPcQ  technocool at kanwar dot nettwitter@2shar

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Next Mutant Of Game Play

It's the year 2027, and the world is divided into those who believe that bodily augmentation — the ability to be stronger, tougher and faster with the right ‘parts' (for a cost, of course) — is the way forward, and those who believe it strips us of the very fabric that makes us human. In Deus Ex: Human Revolution (DXHR), you play Adam Jensen, a security expert in Sarif Industries, a major player in the body augmentation business that is at the cusp of a major breakthrough. Think of the movie Robocop, and you'll begin to understand the bleak picture of our future that the developer Eidos Montreal have painted out for you.You start the game being left for dead at Sarif's headquarters, only to be rehabilitated with the help of augmentation, turning you into man-machine combo with the sole aim of tracking down whoever was responsible for the attack. As you move between one disturbingly authentic location to another, you piece together clues and complete missions that will further your understanding of the prevailing social tensions and the games key figures. Eidos has done a fine job in creating an almost movie-like level of detail in its choice of colors and sets, and this gives DXHR's environments heap loads of character.But where DXHR truly excels is the degree of freedom you have to play the game your way. For example, if you need to gain access to a guarded facility, you can either blitzkrieg your way in, or choose the path of stealth, sneaking in unnoticed and knocking them out as you go along. Choose the latter, and you gain valuable experience points – either way, the way you play the game is left up to you. The game does not force you to find that one right way to solve a problem, and so, in many ways, DXHR offers you that ever-elusive holy grail of game development – free will.After well over 20 hours of game play, I'm still hooked to the game, and despite minor quirks and inconsistencies, is in the end much like its augmented protagonist – a step above its peers.Rating: 9/10Price: Rs 2,499 (PS3 & Xbox 360), Rs 999 (PC)URL: http://bit.ly/rudyPHOff The RecordAren't there times when you wish the Gmail service, wonderful as it is, would be available offline? You know… the flaky-internet or in-flight-times? If you use Google's Chrome browser, wait no more! All you have to do is head over to the Chrome Web Store and install the new Offline Gmail app.Once you start it up, the app will ask you if you want to store your email offline - depending on how much e-mail you have, Offline Gmail will store three to seven days worth of messages and all your ‘starred' e-mails. Got an older email you want offline? Remember to ‘star' it. Bear in mind, this operation should be done only on your own personal computer – don't allow offline storage on a public computer unless you want others to be snooping around in your emails.Once you're offline, simply launch Chrome and start up the Offline Gmail app, and you will be able to compose new emails, reply, apply labels and stars and all the other operations you can normally do when you're online. The app simply remembers all these actions and performs them the next time you connect to the Internet. Neat or what?Price: freeURL: http://bit.ly/oyeUX9 (only for the Chrome browser) Memories In Store Long weekends and festive seasons are perfect for hours upon hours of pictures and videos, and a large storage memory card is definitely in order. Sandisk's Extreme Pro line of SD high capacity cards not only offer the extra storage, but with 45MB/s read/write speeds, give you great shot-to-shot performance that your regular SD memory card. You can see the benefit in reduced times for the camera to write to the card in almost any camera, but if you have a UHS-1 capable camera like the Nikon D7000, the card really sings! And if you're interested in wildlife or action sports, this card could be the difference between catching that peak action shot and missing the moment altogether. URL: http://bit.ly/qtndW3Price: Rs 12,499 (32GB, also available in 8 and 16 GB variants)   Eye For Perfection The MV800 could have been yet another point-and-shoot compact from Samsung, but if you flip to the back, the 16.1 megapixel camera's entire 3-inch capacitive touchscreen flips from flush with the rear up to a 180-degree angle (or any angle in between), making it possible to not only shoot perfectly framed self-portraits, but also to have a direct view of the display when shooting both below and above eye level. It's a pretty cool feature, and since it's useful for more than just self-portraits, it'll come in handy for just about any type of photographer. URL: http://bit.ly/oBo8MqPrice: $279.99 technocool at kanwar dot nettwitter@2shar

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Precious Designs

Iam a traditionalist when it comes to listing my favourite jewellery houses of the world. When I list them (in no specific order), the following jewellery design houses top the list: Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Graff Diamonds, Bvlgari, Chaumet, Boucheron, Fred Leighton. Cartier is known for their absolute mastery, Van Cleef & Arpels for introducing their invisible settings that are now practically de rigueur, but in the early years was something that shook the jewellery world. The technique was avant garde and stellar. The JAR EffectA modern great is JAR — short for Joel Arthur Rosenthal. It is supremely coveted by people as well when they hit the auction block; fans go beserk. However, he can't be compared to a typical jewellery design house. JAR clients run the gamut from Caroline of Monaco to the fabulous Vera Santo Domingo from Brazil and runs into some Hollywood power players such as Ellen Barkin. The list also includes the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, Mary Pinault and Jo Carole Lauder. Legendary Hollywood actress late Elizabeth Taylor was also one of his clients.JAR is, without question, the most influential designer of this century. He is so widely copied. His technique, colour, composition and design have been embraced so widely that his influence has permeated everywhere. In India, Gem Palace remains a favourite. Established in 1852 by the erstwhile Kasliwal family of Jaipur, it is the most famous Indian jewellery house the world over. Its collections are even retailed at Barneys New York. It excels at the whole Rajasthani enamel and stone work. It has had a hold on foreign visitors, be it Jackie Kennedy (former first lady of the US), or Marella Agnelli (wife of Fiat chairman late Gianni Agnelli). Amrapali is another Indian jewellery house renowned for its gold and beaten gold work.Someone with a very fine sensibility is Viren Bhagat. His eye for meticulous detail and splendid work with diamonds is absolutely jaw dropping. Bhagat remains selective in his approach and he is unarguably at the top of his game. He remains very selective in his approach and output. The list is rather long, but this will have to suffice as the ‘greats'. MAJESTIC DESIGNS: (Left to Right)Tiffany's Bee brooch; Cartier's love collection; and Tiffany's Audubon brooch Young TalentsAmong the younger talented artists, you don't have to be a big name, but there are many brilliant creative people around. From the costume jewellery world, there is Eddie Borgo, who started in 2002 and is well known for his coveted cone bracelets which took rebel chic to another level. Then there is Alexis Bittar and our Indian Mawi. Plus, there is the more precious lot like Stephen Webster, Luz Camino, Cathy Waterman, Loree Rodkin, Ippolita and Ted Muehling.Unfortunately nowadays, what we tend to see is copying — what I mean by this is that the Eastern lot (of artists) copy a lot from the western greats. There are a few like the superb Hong Kong artists who are brilliantly unique and evocative. If you go by jewellery, our eastern Indian tradition is very unique. But here too, when the artists try to be European, it becomes more of an imitation.The traditional western jewellery houses were taken in by India during the 1920s and 1930s. That spawned a movement with Indian jewels and Indian stones. This included the legendary tutti fruitty collections from Cartier, Boucheron and Chaumet's work on kalgis and sautoirs. The interplay of stone, setting and colour reflected a major Eastern revival. There has not really been much more since then. Of course, we include the whole Occidental movement of the Far East, which was a huge player in design. The West was taken in with the whole Chinese and Japanese aesthetic as well.Even today when it comes to jewellery, investing in gold — especially for the middle classes — is still huge. And sensibly so. It is on the up and up. I don't think that is ever going to die out. Are people here brand conscious? You tell me!My Personal FavouritesMy personal favourite Indian collections have to be the following: those from Kapurthala, Jaipur and Patiala for their royal grandeur and majestic appeal. The royal houses were famed for taking loose stones with them abroad and having the great masters work them into pieces of great importance. Cartier, Boucheron, Chaumet, etc. were apparently gobsmacked by the quality and sizes of these natural stones and were entranced. They could not get enough of them and created absolutely visionary pieces, spawned movements and are now in the annals of history. The royal houses of Kapurthala, Patiala, Hyderabad, and Holkar were, and remain, the great bastions of titanic design and an aesthetic that can't be matched. Plus, there are many families apart from the royal ilk who have great collections including the Duchess of Windsors, Elizabeth Taylor, and icons such as Marjorie Merriweather Post.What I love is unique individuality. Too many poseurs are not too inspiring. And luckily, there is a surfeit of talent, and one gets inspired often. What inspires me most is that whether you are on the streets in New York, or at Collette in Paris or Dover Street in London, or in the gali's of Jaipur, inspiration is plentiful. Having said that, who truly works my every nerve in the best way possible is some of JAR's work.bweditor (at) abp (dot)in(This story was published in Businessworld Issue Dated 26-09-2011)

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